Trailing Pugin in Birmingham

Over the last couple of days I've been following part of the Pugin Trail around Birmingham, taking in other sites along the way. 2012 marks the bicentenary of Augustus Welby Pugin (1/3/1812 – 14/9/1852), arguably the greatest British architect, designer and writer of the nineteenth century. A specially designed trail, highlighting the connections of Pugin and his friend John Hardman with Birmingham, is available from Birmingham's tourist information offices, museums and libraries as well as other key venues including St Chad’s Cathedral.

The Cathedral and Bishop’s House (originally opposite), and their interiors, were designed by Pugin. The cathedral is an internationally significant building, being the first Catholic cathedral to be built in the UK since the Reformation. The cathedral was built by George Myers (‘Pugin’s Builder’) and the original internal decorations and fittings were made by craftsmen who re-introduced medieval techniques of production: William Warrington, the chancel windows, 1841; John Hardman junior, the plate and, after 1845, several splendid windows; Herbert Minton, the floor tiles. Pugin’s magnificent rood screen was removed in a re-ordering, in 1967. The vestments were made by Lucy Powell and colleagues, to Pugin’s designs, many surviving to this day. Pugin, a collector of antiquities, also provided the Cathedral with some fine original medieval furnishings, acquired on his continental journeys, including the 15th century German Canons’ stalls and the pulpit. Beneath the Cathedral is a spacious Romanesque-style crypt containing several chantry chapels.

A delightful print display and trail ‘Pugin, Dürer and The Gothic’ runs at the BarberInstitute of Fine Arts until 24 June. Exhibits are from the Barber’s own collection and include a late medieval Brussels wood carving of Joachim and Anna, once owned by John Bernard Hardman; an early Netherlandish triptych of the Deposition, once owned by Pugin; a collection of eight prints and one drawing by Dürer, widely recognised as the greatest German Renaissance artist and a prime inspiration to Pugin, and a Pugin octagonal table on loan from King Edward’s School.

In 1838, Pugin persuaded his friend, John Hardman (1811-1867), to turn his Birmingham button-making business to making metalwork and later stained glass for his new churches.  The Museum of the Jewellery Quarter features a number Hardman pieces in its displays, and most of the techniques and processes demonstrated on the fascinating factory tour are exactly the same as used in the 19th Century by Hardman and similar metalworking firms. For the Pugin Bicentenary the museum is mounting a special exhibition on Pugin and Hardman which runs until January 2013.

Winterbourne House, also on the Pugin Trail is a rare surviving example of an early 20th century suburban villa and garden. The house was built in 1903 for John and Margaret Nettlefold, of Guest, Keen & Nettlefold. Designed as a small country estate the house boasted rustic outbuildings and large gardens. Both the house and garden follow the style of the Arts and Crafts movement with examples of local craftsmanship throughout.

I also visited the Ikon Gallery and was intrigued by Postcards From Japan - A Message From Tohoku Artists, a touring exhibition of A5 works by 22 artists from North East Japan marking the first anniversary of the devastating earthquake and tsunami that hit north east Japan on 11th March 2011. In the aftermath of the disaster, electronic means of communication largely failed, making the use of landlines, mobile phones and the Internet extremely difficult. The post office, however, was quickly up and running and in many cases the first opportunity to report news of survival to loved ones was by postcard. The exhibition is curated by Kate Thomson and Hironori Katagiri, who were working in Tohoku when the earthquake struck. Together the pair have voluntarily organised international exhibitions and projects to support recovery in Tohoku, encouraging local artists and their communities, and developing international cultural links. For more information visit  http://www.postcardproject.org/.

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Bruce Cockburn - Tokyo.